The Departure List #6 - Artistic Currents, From Paris to Provence

This week, we dive into some of France's newest cultural openings and exhibitions - from the Seine's Left Bank to the artistic heart of the south of France

The sixth edition of the Departure List - your weekly ticket to travel and culture inspiration and news, straight into your inbox.

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As the busy summer season speeds along (how are we already in July?), there's a whirlwind of newness to share from the travel world. This week, we have a lot to dive into (pun intended) – from the thrilling, newly opened public swimming areas in the Seine to the Left Bank's most anticipated new hotel opening which recently opened its doors. Beyond the French capital, art enthusiasts can look forward to two of the most highly anticipated exhibitions of the year in Provence. We've got a lot to cover. Let's dive into this week’s departure list…

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1. Ready for a Swim? The River is Open…

After over a century, public swimming in the River Seine has now resumed, marking a significant milestone following a €1.4 billion cleanup effort. Since Saturday, July 5, 2025, three designated bathing zones have opened to the public as part of the "Paris Plages" initiative: one near Notre Dame Cathedral, another by the Eiffel Tower (Grenelle), and a third in eastern Paris (Bercy). These sites, equipped with amenities like changing rooms, showers, and lifeguard supervision, will be accessible until August 31, with specific operating hours and age restrictions depending on the location. 

While the 2024 Paris Olympics successfully hosted open-water swimming and triathlon events in the Seine, demonstrating initial improvements in water quality, officials maintain a vigilant stance. Daily water quality tests are conducted, and a flag system indicates safety, acknowledging that heavy rainfall can still lead to temporary closures due to potential overflows. Despite ongoing scepticism from some Parisians regarding the murky appearance and historical pollution, authorities, including Mayor Anne Hidalgo, assert that the water now consistently meets European bathing standards, fulfilling a long-standing promise to reclaim the iconic waterway for public enjoyment.

2. The Left Bank's Latest Obsession

Paris's iconic Left Bank, long a haven for intellectuals, artists, and creatives, now welcomes a stylish new addition to its esteemed collection of hotels, SAX Paris. Housed within a meticulously restored 1899 neo-Gothic building that once served as the Ségur telephone exchange, this five-star LXR Hotels & Resorts property offers 118 rooms and suites.

Under the visionary guidance of Karine Journo, the hotel's commitment to art is evident in its meticulously curated installations, featuring prominent works by acclaimed artists such as Arik Levy and Sto, seamlessly integrating a gallery-like experience within the hotel's chic embrace. But Sax Paris offers more than just contemporary design - it's a destination for the senses, particularly when it comes to dining. Restaurant Le SAX, an all-day establishment overseen by Executive Chef David Maroleau alongside Kinugawa Rive Gauche. This Franco-Japanese rooftop restaurant spans two levels, offering not just exquisite fusion cuisine but also divine views of classic Haussmann architecture and of course, the Eiffel Tower.

3. Musée Granet is staging a Paul Cézanne exhibition

For those seeking to see of the French greats, Aix-en-Provence is where you need to be. The Musée Granet in Aix is currently staging "Cézanne au Jas de Bouffan," a major international exhibition running from June 28 to October 12, 2025.

This significant showcase, a cornerstone of the "Cézanne 2025" celebrations across Aix-en-Provence, delves into the pivotal four decades Paul Cézanne spent at his family estate, Jas de Bouffan. Featuring over one hundred works, including approximately ninety paintings, the exhibition offers an intimate look at the artist's formative and mature periods, with notable loans from prestigious institutions such as the Musée d'Orsay. 

(Image credit: Carrières des Lumière)

4. Lumière Redefined: An Impressionistic Immersion

Visitors can experience Claude Monet's groundbreaking art like never before as the Carrières des Lumières in Les Baux-de-Provence hosts a truly transformative exhibition, running until January 4, 2026.

Within the timeless, majestic confines of this ancient quarry, Monet's iconic paintings are reborn, projected onto monumental stone walls in a breathtaking symphony of light and sound. This isn't merely an exhibition; it's an immersive, sensory experience that brings to life the very essence of Impressionism. Here, you can witness the fleeting play of light, the ethereal shimmer of water, and the very breath of nature as Monet's genius unfolds in a living, moving spectacle.

See you in the next post - later this week! x

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